Bulletin Board                         

For those of you who can't visit my studio in
person -  I thought you would like to get a visual picture of how your quilt comes together!
Maybe this will also answer questions you have as to "Why" pressing is important and "Why" your backing fabric needs to be larger than your top.
I hope you enjoy this pictorial on
"how it is all done".
Come on inside...

    After determining that the backing fabric is sufficiently larger than the top, the backing fabric is "squared up".  By folding the back in half and adjusting it until it hangs evenly, it is laid back on the cutting table where the ends are cut to assure they are straight.  Then it's off to the machine for mounting.

    The straight edge is pinned to the canvas "leaders" with large pins.  The bottom is pinned first then I roll the fabric onto that roller until the top edge can be pinned to the "take-up" roll.  When it is completely pinned - the fabric is flat - no bellies or wrinkles.  Clamps are attached to sides to be sure the back stays sufficiently taunt.  Clamps and pins are the major reason for having your quilt back 3" larger than your quilt top.  Running into clamps on pins can ruin any good quilting day!

 

    I then measure the batting to be used and cut it to be sure that it is at least as large as the back.  The batting is cut from the roll and laid on top of the backing fabric.  I then lock the machine so it only rolls horizontally and run a basting stitch the length of the back about an inch or two from the pins.  This gives a nice straight line to use as a guide for pinning your top to.

                   

    Once the top is pinned in place, the quilt is measured to be sure it is square.  I then check the back to be sure it is still flat before the top is basted in place down the left edge then across the top and down the right side.  All the pins are then removed as the top is based in place.  As the quilt is rolled to a new area for quilting the process of measuring the quilt top across and basting continues keeping the quilt flat and square.

 


    In this example I am going to be doing custom quilting.  Most custom work with border treatments or blocks gets "stitched in the ditch".  Not as easy as on your home machine but "ditching" adds a flatness and finished look that I prefer.  To "ditch" I have to put an extended throat plate on the machine for stability in using a guide.  You need that flat area for any ruler or template work.  You can see in the pictures how the guide is used to help stay in the ditch.  Pressing is key if your top is going to be "ditched".  In this example I "ditched" both sides of the red boarder and around the points of the mariners compass design.  The top and bottom borders were also stitched before the quilt needs to be turned.

    The border in this example will need a registration line, done with a chalk pencil that brushes cleanly off the fabric.  I can then use the line as a guide for the spine of the feather stitched in this border.  The quilt is now ditched and stable.  At this point it is necessary to turn the quilt to complete the border design.  The quilt is then unpinned and taken to the cutting table to trim the side edges.  The edges now trimmed, the quilt is pinned back on the canvas and the border is completed.

                     

    In this example the center design was stitched after turning the quilt.  After remounting the quilt I used cellophane to audition my design ideas for the compass.  When pleased with the design the quilt was completed.

             


    I hope this takes some of the mystery out of the process of what happens to your quilt when it is in my care!  And why it is so important to follow the guide lines for quilt preparation.  If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact me!

 
 

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Ginny Clausen Studio
3981 Silver Clipper Lane
Lake Havasu, AZ  86406


Mailing Address:
55 S Lake Havasu Ave, Suite 131
Lake Havasu City, AZ  86403

714-342-7003
AZ Studio:  928-505-0238
AZ:  928-380-1621
 

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